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Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear von Aldrich, Winifred (eBook)

  • Erscheinungsdatum: 27.06.2012
  • Verlag: Wiley
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Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear

This fourth edition of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear remains the standard text book but has three majorimprovements. First, the sections have been re-organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children's clothes. Today's popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic 'flat' pattern cutting is used to construct the majority of children's wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes. The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners (Parts One, Two and Three), and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children's wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade. The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections; this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations. Finally, the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing. The clear division of the boys' and girls' measurements in the charts has been in response to the way clothes are marketed and to co-ordinate with European size charts. 'Plus' charts for heavier children have also been added. Winifred Aldrich is a practising fashion designer, experienced in both the industry and education, and is now working in computer-aided design in her own studio. She was previously a lecturer in Loughborough and London for 14 years and is continuing her research at The Nottingham Trent University. Her books on pattern cutting have become bestsellers.


    Format: ePUB
    Kopierschutz: AdobeDRM
    Seitenzahl: 216
    Erscheinungsdatum: 27.06.2012
    Sprache: Englisch
    ISBN: 9781118368978
    Verlag: Wiley
    Größe: 20975 kBytes
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Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear

The growth of children and adolescents

Designers of children's clothes should be aware of the way that a child's body shape changes as it grows and to recognise the shape of a child at a particular stage. Well-designed children's clothes take account of the child's continually changing shape.

In the first two editions of this book the size charts were constructed and divided in the way a child's body develops and changes. Today, clothes are designed and sold as ranges for particular target groups dictated by the large retailers. The revised size charts in the third, and this fourth edition, have been divided to enable pattern cutters to cut clothes for these ranges. However, by creating sub-divisions, the size charts still reflect the uneven body shape changes that occur during children's growth.

The problem of overweight and obese children has had to be considered when updating this edition. It is useful to understand how it may affect the size and shape of approximately 25% of children, and therefore the problem is discussed in 'Overweight and Obese Children'. However, the following descriptions of the basic features of growth are relevant to the majority of children.

Basic features of growth

The rapid growth and changing shape of the child from birth to age one means that close increments in sizing have to be made; this is done usually in three-month intervals. It is at this stage that weight and the age of the child are the predominant descriptions for garment selection, whereas height becomes the critical sizing division once a child begins to walk.

The speed at which a child grows decreases steadily from shortly after birth onwards until puberty when the rate of growth accelerates (this acceleration is known as the 'adolescent growth spurt'). Until this growth spurt occurs, there appears to be little difference between boys and girls in the speed at which they grow. There is a short-lived mid-growth spurt at about 7–8 years but this is often not detectable.

The decrease in the rate of growth varies from approximately 8cm per year at three years to 5cm per year at ten years. Manufacturers have decided to accept a 6cm height interval as a base for a coding scheme, as this approximates to the average growth per year over this period. However, it must be noted that the range of heights in children in any particular age group is larger than the amount of growth that occurs in any one year, therefore a child's age is only a very crude guide or 'designation' of his/her expected stature. It is better to link other body measurements to height rather than age, and one must recognise that age on clothing labels is only a secondary description. During puberty, age ceases to have even a descriptive value as variations in height linked to heredity are further distorted by the variability of the onset of puberty and the growth spurt.

In early childhood there is little difference between the sexes. Small differences begin to appear at four, but significant differences begin to appear at about seven. This means that it is advisable to offer a size chart for each sex from the age of four but necessary by seven. Puberty brings dramatic differences between boys and girls, the onset of puberty occurring eighteen months to two years earlier in the girl.

Children of the same height can have variable arm and leg measurements and these differences become more apparent as the limb length increases. Children in the North of England, Scotland and Northern Ireland have been found to be slightly smaller than average. This may be due in part to the greater numbers of working-class children in these areas. Significant differences can be found between children of classes I and II (managerial and professional occupations) and classes IV and V (semi-skilled and unskilled occupations). Children from classes I and II appear to be taller (2&ndash

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